Tools & Tips
Building outdoors with pressure-treated wood necessitates a few special construction practices, precautions, and maintenance procedures. Use hot-dip, galvanized or stainless steel fasteners to prevent corrosion and premature failure. Be sure to protect the finished product from moisture and sun damage.
Most important is to build your deck safely and in accordance with state and local building codes. Follow all building tips, consumer information, handling precautions, and care-and-maintenance recommendations when building with pressure-treated wood. Anything you build with pressure-treated wood will last a long time, so it makes good sense to build your deck like a master craftsman.
Using your scaled drawing, you are now ready to develop your materials list.
Basic Tool Checklist
Most deck projects will require:
- Hammer
- Circular saw
- Drill and bits
- Square
- Chalk line
- Nylon twine
- Tape Measure
- Hand saw
- Level
- Post hole digger
Tips for a successful deck project:
Check local building codes
Be sure to check local building codes and subdivision restrictions before you start building. Also, a construction permit may require a plan.
Be safe
For safety, when working with wood, we recommend gloves, dust mask and goggles. You may not want to order lumber or start work until you’re sure that your plans meet local requirements and don’t interfere with utility and drain lines.
Use appropriate fasteners
Use hot-dip galvanized fasteners or other fasteners as required by building codes; otherwise, your treated wood will last longer than the unprotected fasteners you've used to put it together. Since ProWood Micro is less corrosive than ACQ, these recommendations are the same as they were with CCA-treated lumber.
Install deck boards best-face up
As a general rule, nail boards with the best-side facing up to reduce cupping and improve appearance. Fasten thin boards to thicker ones to maintain structural integrity.
Drill pilot holes
It’s a good idea to drill pilot holes for your fasteners, especially when nailing near the edge or end of the board. Pilot holes will help minimize splitting.
Space boards for shrinkage
If the wood has been kiln-dried or air-dried after treatment, you don’t need to allow for shrinkage. But if the wood has not been “dried” following treatment (as evidenced by the word “dry” on the end tag or stamp), butt decking boards together. As drying occurs, the wood is likely to shrink somewhat.